Thursday, July 22, 2010

Restaurant Review: El Torero, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, England

Lest you think I hate all restaurants, I decided to do a couple of reviews of restaurants I love. I'm starting overseas at what is currently my favorite restaurant in the world I've seen to date, El Torero (Milburn House,
Side City Centre).

El Torero is my favorite for a few reasons. First, the food is consistently, authentically, mouthwatering, something of a feat when you're in England. Second, the service is impeccable- not overbearing, but there when you need something. Third, when you walk through the doors, suddenly, you are in Spain. The servers usually speak Spanish, and everything has a pleasant, authentic feel. In El Torero, you sense that you really could while away an entire afternoon talking with friends over wine and tapas. And the most important reason that El Torero is my favorite restaurant? Leo and I dined there many times during our courtship and he even colluded with the staff there to surprise me on my birthday (see the photo of us with the most amazing birthday cake ever- a rich chocolate torte from Thornton's, which was covered in chocolate with chocolate truffles embedded in the top- ridiculous), so this restaurant holds a very special, dear place in my heart. Leo and I love El Torero so much that we had our wedding caterer copy some of our favorite dishes from their menu.

So let's start with the food. You can easily see from the photo (theirs) that the food looks good. But more importantly, it's authentically Spanish. Everything on the menu is exactly as they promise. 

The pan y alioli is exactly what you want it to be - a baguette-style bread that's light and crunchy on the outside and just the right amount of airy and chewy inside, accompanied by an alioli that's the perfect blend of garlic and mayonnaise. The aceitunas are straight from Spain, gorgeous, plump, fat green olives that disappear far too quickly. The paella de pescado y mariscos, cooked to order for two, is a perfect representation of everything paella should be - the rice is a gentle yellow color from the saffron, the seafood left in shells to keep the flavor and moisture in, and every flavor working in brilliant, beautiful harmony. The cigalitas plancha are large prawns, cooked to perfection, absent of that springy, rubbery texture one finds all too often in shrimp dishes. The gambas al ajillo (king prawns) have a hint of spiciness from the chili peppers that's easily relieved with sangria. And the patatas payesa, oh, the patatas payesa...potatoes lightly fried with onions and red peppers. The peppers and onion caramelize and subtly flavor the potatoes so that as soon as they hit your mouth, you think you've died and gone to heaven. To finish the meal, sometimes they'll bring you an elegant shot glass filled with Tilford, a Spanish hazelnut liqueur that blows Frangelico out of the water.

Chef Almirón, originally from Andalucia, is a genius at translating native Spanish tapas cuisine. His recipes are authentic, flavorful, and beautifully-presented. "El Torero" translates to "bullfighter," and if Almirón is the fighter here, then one almost feels sorry for the bull...but looks forward to seeing the brilliant way Almirón will serve it.



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